Chris Sharma Didn't Train A Day In His Life Until Recently

Chris Sharma Didn't Train A Day In His Life Until Recently
Photo: Chris Sharma
If you ask 10 rock climbers to name the best climber in the world, many would say "Chris Sharma."

For the better part of the last two decades, Sharma has become synonymous with the sport. He broke onto the scene as a 15-year-old after scaling what was considered the toughest climb in North America, Necessary Evil 8c+/5.14d. Since then, the world has been Sharma's oyster; he's gone on to notch the first ascent of Realization 9a+/5.15a, and has routed La Dura Dura 9b+/5.15c, El Bon Combat 9b+/5.15b/c, Jumbo Love 9b/5.15b, Practice of the Wild 8C/V15, and Witness the Fitness V15 (8C).

But what's perhaps even more amazing than his accomplishments is that he achieved them without adhering to a diet or keeping a training regimen of any kind.

In a recent interview with Outside Magazine, Chris explained how his training has exclusively consisted of climbing outdoors:

My method has always been throwing myself at these walls and these lines over and over again," Sharma told Outside. "I'm beating myself up and pushing my limits. You might call that training or you might call that climbing.
Sharma said this technique was beneficial simply because it kept his stoke high, and in the end, that's what's most important to him. But this year, Sharma welcomed a new member to his clan: Alana. Ain't nothing like a kid to disrupt a climbing schedule and immediately add 15 pounds to the old waist belt.

For most, this is an acceptable, and inevitable, part of the parent/climber dynamic. But for Sharma, there are projects on the horizon--BIG projects that could reset the standard in climbing once again. Immediately, two things became apparent: 1) He can't avoid the gym anymore, and 2) It's time to get serious about training.

That's why Sharma hired one of the world's best trainers, Patxi Usobiaga. For years, Chris and Patxi competed in Youth Championship competitions; however, since then, they have taken "very different paths," according to Sharma's Outside interview.

"I've been more of a lifestyle climber, and he's gone this strict, regimented training direction and brought himself to a high level," Sharma told Outside. "He won the World Championship in 2009 and he's retired from pro climbing, and he's training people."

When it comes to training, Usobiaga is one of the most dedicated climbers in history--his insane regimens have become legendary. So, naturally, we were ecstatic when we saw a video emerge of the two of these behemoths training hard together:

Despite climbing without a trainer or a specific regimen to follow, Sharma has stunned the world with his accomplishments. Now that he's teaming up with Usobiaga, it feels like the planets are aligning toward something amazing on the horizon.
FloSports, Inc.

FloSports, an innovative sports media and events company, based in Austin, Texas, is the authentic source for content and a new world of coverage that true fans have been waiting for. Focused on three areas – live competition and coverage, original content, and owned and operated events – the company takes fragmented communities and provides them the platform to connect with the sports they love.

Learn More at